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	A certain Japanese taste for design.

The continuing negative effect may have persuaded some previous participants to duck this JFW International Fashion Fair (IFF), but there were also numerous signs of renewed optimism and evidence of companies spurred into adapting to cope with the conditions and position themselves for the upturn.

With 2012 being a year of elections in several major economies, there is an expectation of improvement in the global economic picture and much of this optimism had filtered through to the companies involved at this IFF.

Last year's disaster seems to have changed attitudes to religion and marriage, with the latter seeing a significant upturn.

Wedding gowns in profusion.		Addressing the earthquake in design.

The IFF recognised this with the prominent space immediately inside the entrance given over to bridal styles, with a smattering of ethical products.

Mouri with Dorry Doll fashion.

Osaka-based Asakura's Dorry Doll label attracted plenty of attention with its well-made party dresses manufactured on the Chinese mainland and in South Korea, and priced at between US$220 and US$270.

"Our main concept is 'free design' with reasonable prices," explained Planning Designer, Junko Mouri. "We produce very gorgeous items at a daily wear price. That's why we are selling lots."

Upbeat Hong Kong representation

The main Hong Kong interest seemed upbeat, with OEM and ODM firm International Creation Company (ICC) launching a new shoes and handbag brand, Rick & Roy, aimed at the middle to upper market, with shoes priced at around US$220 and bags at US$120.

The colourful and sophisticated designs, overseen by Japanese Executive Designer Satomi Hisaka, combined a fun summer appeal with a sense of quality; that's pitched mainly at the Japanese market but with an eye on expansion to the international market.

Rick & Roy bags and shoes.		Sajima: sentimental journey.

After launching the brand in Tokyo, ICC will take the brand back for showing in Hong Kong.

Director Susumu Sajima explained: "we are designing items that women will want to take everywhere, items that women will take on a journey or anywhere they can relax, and which will carry positive memories."

ICC aims at the 20s to 40s age range for fashion and high quality. Prices and image are both key to sales, the company said.

Another new brand, Lemony Bennet, produced by Japan-based textile and accessory company Matsukyu, also seemed to be tapping into the "life is a journey" theme also espoused by ICC.

Lemony Bennet clothing.		Matsuhisa (left) and assistant.

Matsukyu had a collection of clothes aimed at a younger market (20s to 30s) with hints of "travel" in the design. This was the kind of attractive presentation that labels needed to complement other advantages, such as price.

"Our theme is 'a nostalgic journey', with designs that evoke Paris, Rome and New York," said Director, Jiro Matsuhisa. The company has extensive contacts on the Chinese mainland as well as a Hong Kong office, with much of its production in China and other Asian countries.

Different aesthetics

Although both Rick & Roy and Lemony Bennet were looking to travel to create an interesting brand narrative, there were major stylistic differences that pointed to a growing mismatch over what is popular in Japan and elsewhere.

While Rick & Roy had an adult sophistication that would translate to the international markets, Lemony Bennet's clothes were marked by a cuteness and girlishness that anchors the label strongly in the Japanese market.

Some labels, like Chinese mainland brand Hua Yuan, embrace this latter, very Japanese aesthetic. Its outfits in the US$38 to US$50 range were replete with retro kawaii touches - ribbons, big frilly collars and floral patterns - that go down well with Japanese customers, but less well elsewhere.

	Anki with her designs.

As a finalist in the Tokyo New Designer Fashion Grand Prix, a regular prize given to encourage young talent, she had space at the fair to display her new label Swanzi, which she runs with a Hong Kong-based business partner.

"At the end of March last year, I came to Japan to study and I started my new brand," she recalled. "Now I am based in Japan and I am starting to spread my collection in Japan and promote it to other countries."

Although she was inspired by Japanese fashion, her own designs seemed at odds with the prevailing taste. Her outfits are edgier, with a more aggressive feel, defined by black, but mixed with stylish hues of green and blue, straight lines, sharp angles, and leather adornment.

"In Asia, Japan and Korea are both important for fashion," she commented. "Japanese fashion is cute while Korean fashion is strong. My style is especially liked by Korean girls. I am taking this collection to New York. You can see the style is not very Japanese but is more international."

A wool and leather jacket was priced at US$790 and a black silk dress at US$650. Asked how she could adjust her style for the Japanese market she suggested more layering, softer skirts with leggings and accessories.

Gloomy Bear applied to youth fashion.		Union Jack a surprisingly popular motif.

Low priced, "fast" fashion

Mongolian cashmere on parade.

But there is still a hunger for quality. At IFF that was seemingly being channeled into an increased focus on accessories, from hats and bags, to smaller, quainter items, like leather stationery and clothes for pets.

Leather goods makers seemed to be feeling the pinch, as bag makers switched to cheaper alternatives, like polyurethane.

Osaka-based Spice Edition was showing A3-sized mesh bags priced attractively at around US$50.

In response, 24 leather makers had clubbed together to present a range of new items under the title "Japan Leather Styles 2012".

These included leather bags by Maito dyed using purely natural dyes retailing from US$185.

Unison Department had very attractive reversible leather bags in brilliant Hiroshige blue for a similar price. There were also plenty of smaller leather goods on display such as belts, wallets and stationery items.

"Before, leather retailers only showed bag and shoe collections," said Kayo Shigemori, representing Japan Leather Style 2012. "This time they have risen to the challenge with new techniques and items."

Decoration Desire, a hat and accessory maker from Osaka, attracted a lot of attention with its flexible cotton and linen hats aimed at the middle to high end, with items around US$185.

Decoration Desire's Naoko Takami with hats.		Bubbleflop summer sandals.

These hats had a foldable wire around the brim, allowing them to be easily and compactly packed away for travel or convenience. This feature also allowed wearers to constantly alter the style.

The ultimate accessory, however, is not a hat or a belt but a pet, it seemed.

Pet apparel is now very big business in Japan. Brands like Godpiva and Circus Circus were very noticeable, selling cute little dresses, outfits and accessories for dogs in a surprisingly high price range.

One tiny animal outfit, hardly bigger than a doll's dress, was retailing for over US$100 dollars. This suggested that when it comes to their beloved pets, customers still had notable price blind spots.

IFF at the Tokyo Big Sight International Exhibition Center, from 25 to 27 January, drew 25,725 visitors, slightly less than last January, but an improvement on July's figure of 24,175.

from special correspondent Marius Gombrich, Tokyo