Fashion is a creative journey that never stops. It is not just a pursuit of aesthetics but also a fusion of culture, sustainability, and technology. When a designer's inspiration meets unique materials, infinite possibilities emerge. Organized by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, Fashion InStyle will make its grand debut on April 27, 2025, at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. The new exhibition area, "NEXT@Fashion InStyle," features Han Chong, the founder of the renowned brand Self-Portrait, as the consultant. He will lead five Hong Kong designers in collaborating with five innovative materials, redefining the future of fashion with revolutionary material applications.
We invited designer Kinyan Lam to share how he incorporates the traditional craftsmanship of Gambier Canton Silk into modern fashion design.
Local fashion designer Kinyan Lam founded his eponymous brand and Genau Studio, a natural dyeing workshop. His designs reflect a deep commitment to craftsmanship, culture, and the environment. With a passion for natural dyeing, he centers this collection on Gambier Canton Silk. “I selected Gambier Canton Silk for this collection due to my prior experience with traditional dyeing techniques and familiarity with the material. Supported by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, I aim to revive interest in Gambier Canton Silk, particularly highlighting the craftsmanship from Shunde, China.”
The public may lack a deep understanding of Gambier Canton Silk, yet its name evokes rustic elegance. With a history spanning two to three centuries, this traditional Chinese material transforms rough linen into luxurious silk through unique dyeing and finishing processes, earning it the moniker 'Soft Gold' in the textile industry. " 'Gambier Canton Silk dates back two to three centuries. Initially made from linen with short, fragile fibers, it was later enhanced with silk through dyeing techniques involving tree resin, improving its durability and comfort. At first, it was only used for simple coarse fabrics, gradually transitioning to silk," explains Zhou Xiaogang, president of the Foshan Lunjiao Gambier Canton Silk Association. Renowned for its superior texture, this naturally produced fabric was favored by the elite in Beijing and Shanghai during the 1930s. The intricate traditional methods gradually waned with the advent of cotton fabrics and textile mechanization, experiencing a revival in the 1990s. Deeply rooted in Shunde for over a century, this craft was recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage in 2008, a testament to its enduring traditional and artisanal excellence
Kinyan is deeply passionate and dedicated to natural dyeing. “I have always cherished the craft of natural dyeing, and Gambier Canton Silk is esteemed in Guangdong,” he says. Given its high cost and limited use among brands, Gambier Canton Silk presents a rare and valuable opportunity for Kinyan to conduct in-depth research. Supported by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council and local factories in Shunde, Kinyan visited a production facility to observe the meticulous process of creating Gambier Canton Silk, which includes juicing, dyeing, drying, and a unique mud bed treatment. "'Drying the yam is crucial,' explains the person in charge of the Shunxi Yam Drying Factory. 'We adjust the concentration based on climate and sunlight, dry the leaves on grass, and adapt our methods to different wind directions.'"
Regarding the design theme, Kinyan explained that it is inspired by traditional craftsmanship. "I referenced the elongated, loose silhouettes of the 1950s." The garments are crafted using traditional Chinese flat cutting techniques, which align perfectly with Kinyan’s previous works. "I am skilled at using high flat cutting techniques to create loose, comfortable garments, so I am well-versed in handling Gambier Canton Silk." He has made this ancient fabric the star of the collection, preserving its cultural roots while exuding a modern aesthetic.
"Precision is the greatest challenge. 'Due to the fabric’s high cost, I must calculate carefully during cutting and pattern layout to minimize waste.” Kinyan explained. "Drying the leaves is particularly challenging, as the timing relies on the artisan’s judgment. If it rains, the process must be restarted.” The factory also spoke about the difficulties in production. "Shunde has been passing down this technique for over 100 years without interruption, establishing a complete Gambier Canton Silk industry chain, from design and production to packaging, all taking place in Shunde." While semi-mechanization has been adopted to enhance efficiency, the core traditional methods remain intact, preserving the purest spirit of craftsmanship.
Kinyan traveled to France to study dyeing techniques with international natural dye master Michel Garcia, and Gambier Canton Silk represents traditional Chinese dyeing. Both Eastern and Western dyeing techniques inspire his creations. "Michel Garcia, a chemist, specializes in efficiently infusing pigments into fabrics, while traditional Chinese dyeing methods, such as those for Gambier Canton Silk, often require multiple cycles to achieve the desired hues,” he noted. The factory also highlighted the challenge of maintaining consistency in dyeing Gambier Canton Silk. "Due to the processes involving ambient temperature, pressure, natural light, and manual work, it's impossible to achieve uniformity in every piece. Even within the same fabric, the shades can vary because everything is handmade." Thus, every yard of fabric embodies the craftsman’s dedication and skill, a human touch that cannot be matched by mechanized mass production.
“Gambier Canton Silk is exceptionally well-suited for summer wear, offering lightness, breathability, and sun protection through its darker hues." This makes it an ideal choice for Kinyan's spring and summer collection. Among the eight pieces in the collection, he particularly loves a flat-cut qipao, "which has a strong sense of tradition while exuding a modern, clean aesthetic." Meanwhile, the factory eagerly collaborates with Kinyan to modernize the perception of Gambier Canton Silk, moving away from its 'old' label—a prospect that excites them. "They seek to enhance the fabric with vibrant colors, jacquard patterns, and prints to captivate a younger audience. 'We look forward to collaborating with more Hong Kong designers, broadening the material’s recognition and appreciation."
Kinyan’s Gambier Canton Silk collection will be showcased from April 27 to 30, 2025, at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, with a highlight appearance on the evening of April 28 during the NEXT@Fashion InStyle Fashion Parade.
“Fashion InStyle”